Husbandry Manual

Diamond Python

(Morelia spilota spilota)

Status: Secure

first published 2011

Table of Contents.

1.INTRODUCTION..............................................................................

2. TAXONOMY. ..................................................................................

2.1 NONMENCLATURE.....................................................................

2.2 SUBSPECIES...............................................................................

2.3 RECENT SYNONYMS...................................................................

2.4 OTHER COMMON NAMES............................................................

3. NATURAL HISTORY..........................................................................

3.1 MORPHOMETRICS

3.2

3.3 Conservation Status

3.4 Wild Diet

3.5 Longevity

3.5.1 Wild

3.5.2 Captivity

3.5.3 Techniques to Determine the Age of Adults

4 Housing Requirements

4.1 Exhibit Design

4.2 Holding Area Design

4.3 Spatial Requirements

4.4 Position of Enclosures

4.5 Weather Protection

4.6 Heating Requirements

4.7 Substrate

4.8 Nest Boxes or Bedding Material

4.9 Enclosure Furnishings

5. General Husbandry

5.1 Hygiene and Cleaning

5.2 Record Keeping

5.3 Methods of Identification

5.4 Routine Data Collection

.

6. Feeding Requirements

6.1 Captive Diet

6.2 Supplements

6.3 Presentation of Food

7. Handling and Transport

7.1 Timing of Capture and Handling

7.2 Catching Bags

7.3 Capture and Restraint Techniques

7.4 Weighing and Examination

7.5 Release

7.6 Transport Requirements

7.6.1 Box Design

.

7.6.2 Furnishings

7.6.3 Water and Food

7.6.4 Animals per Box

7.6.5 Timing of Transportation

7.6.6 Release from the Box

8. Health Requirements

8.1 Daily Health Checks

8.2 Detailed Physical Examination

8.3 Routine Treatments

8.4 Known Health Problems

8.5 Quarantine Requirements

9. Behaviour

9.1 Activity

9.2 Social Behaviour

9.3 Reproductive Behaviour

9.4 Bathing

.

9.5 Behavioural Problems

9.6 Signs of Stress

9.7 Behavioural Enrichment

.

9.8 Introductions and Removals

9.9 Interspecific Compatibility

9.10 Intraspecific Compatibility

10. Breeding

10.1 Mating System

10.2 Ease of Breeding

10.3 Reproductive Condition

10.3.1 Females

10.3.2 Males

10.4 Techniques used to Control Breeding

10.5 Occurrence of Hybrids

10.6 Timing of Breeding

10.7 Age at First Breeding and Last Breeding

10.8 Ability to Breed Every Year

10.9 Ability to Breed More Than Once Per Year

10.10 Nesting / Hollow or other Requirements

10.11 Breeding Diet

10.12 Oestrus Cycle and Gestation Period (or Incubation Period)

10.13 Litter Size or Clutch Size

10.14 Age at Weaning / Fledging

10.15 Growth and Development

12. Artificial Incubation and Rearing of Reptiles

12.1 Incubator type

12.2 Incubation Temperatures and Humidity

12.3 Desired % Weight Loss

12.4 Hatching Temperature and Humidity

12.5 Normal Pip to Hatch Interval

12.6 Diet and Feeding Routine

12.7 Specific Requirements

12.8 Identification Methods

12.9 Hygiene

12.11 Weaning

13. Acknowledgements

14. References

15. Bibliography

16. Glossary

17. Appendix

1 Introduction.

The first python species described from Australia was the Diamond python in 1804 and would have been a very familiar snake around Sydney of the time of the settlers (Swan M 2007, p.19).

The Diamond Python (Morelia S. spilota) is a large Australian python with a broad triangular head distinct from the slender neck. It has heat sensitive pits along the lips that help detect warm blooded prey items such as rodents, possums, bats and other small mammals however it will also eat birds and poultry (Cronin L 2001, p.178).

Juveniles feed largely on lizards such as skinks, geckos and other small lizards (Weigel J 2004, p.115).

It is typically dark olive to black above with cream or yellow blotches forming diamond shaped patterns (Cronin L 2001, p.178). The belly is cream to yellow and grows to around 2.5 - 3.0 meters. Adult female's weigh around 4 - 6 kg while males are usually smaller in length and weight which has probably been the result from their reproductive behaviors (Grant R 2007, p.221).

The Diamond python is both an arboreal and terrestrial species that can be found in tree hollows, under leaf litter, in animal burrows, caves, rock crevices, beneath boulders and inside roof spaces (Cronin L 2001, p.178).

The Diamond python can be found along theEast coast of Australia ranging from the Victorian border to above Coffs Harbour (Swan G 2004, p.213). The Diamond python is the further most python species in the world, surviving in an environment with four definite seasons with mid winter temperatures averaging around 15ºC - 20°C of a day time and night time temperatures dropping as low as -2°C, unlike the tropical wet and dry seasons seen with some of its sub species (Grant R 2007, p.221).

Diamond pythons in captivity are a very placid species and are willing to being handled (Weigel J 2004, p.116).

2 Taxonomy.

2.1Nomenclature.

Kingdom: Animalia

Phylum: Chordata

Subphylum: Vertebrata

Class: Reptillia

Order: Squamata

Suborder: Serpentes

Family: Pythonidae

Genus: Morelia

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morelia_spilota

2.2 Other Subspecies Include.

Coastal carpet python - Morelia spilota mcdowelli.

Inland carpet python - Morelia spilota metcalfei.

Centralian carpet python - Morelia spilota bredli. 

Jungle carpet python - Morelia spilota cheynei. 

South western Carpet python - Morelia spilota imbricata. 

North western Carpet python - Morelia spilota variegata. 

2.3 Recent Synonyms.

Not applicable

2.4 Other Common Names.

Not applicable

3 Natural History.

3.1 Morphometrics.

Average length for an adult specimen is 2.5 - 3 meters (Grant R 2007, p.221).

The most common means to determining the sex of Diamond Pythons is by using a blunt surgical probe inserted into the side of the cloaca to establish the presence of the hemipenes in males. The only sexual dimorphism between males and females is the size and shape of the spurs situated to either side of the cloaca. Males have larger 'claws' extending from the spur than females of similar size (Weigel J 2004, p. 83).

It is typically dark olive to black above with cream or yellow blotches forming diamond shaped patterns (Cronin L 2001, p.178). 

3.2 Distribution and Habitat.

3.3 Conservation Status.

Presently secure, but threatened due to habitat loss (Cronin L 2001, p.178).

3.4 Wild Diet.

Warm blooded prey items such as rodents, possums, bats and other small mammals, it will also eat birds and poultry (Cronin L 2001, p.178).

Juveniles feed largely on lizards such as skinks, geckos and other small lizards (Weigel J 2004, p.115).

Adult Diamond pythons will eat mainly mammals and birds in the wild, with mammals making up the lager sum of the diet given the nocturnal ambush hunting strategy used by the species (Grant R 2007, p.226).

3.5 Longevity.

3.5.1 Wild.

No data recorded.

3.5.2 Captivity.

25-30 Years. https://www.burkesbackyard.com.au/factsheets/Others/Snakes-as-Pets/2693

3.5.3 Techniques to Determine the Age of Adults.

- No known way.

4 Housing Requirements.

4.1 Exhibit / Enclosure Design.

Outdoor enclosures such as an aviary should only be used if the animal is found within similar climatic areas that you intend to set up in. Furniture should include branches, clean substrate, access to clean water and hide or den boxes made from wood, plastic or cardboard placed under shelter (Weigel J 2004, p. 16).

Indoor enclosures should be made of at least 16mm white melamine wood with glass sliding doors at the front, installing air vents into the sides of the tank should also be included to increase air flow placed at the top and bottom of the enclosure (Grant R 2007, p.223). (see figure A,B and C)

4.3 Spatial Requirements.

Indoor enclosures to house one or two adult specimens should have minimal dimensions 50cm x 100cm x 100cm with the height of the cage one of the larger dimensions (Weigel J 2004, p.115). However Grant (2007, P.223) states the measurements to be 120cm length x 60cm wide x 60-90cm high which is dramatically smaller than the measurements of Weigel. Grant (2007, P.223) also notes that the diamond python does not need a large area as it is an ambush predator and not an overly active animal.

4.4 Position of Enclosures.

It is recommended that the height of an enclosure be at least 100cm tall as Diamond pythons are an arboreal species (Weigel J 2004, p. 115).

4.5 Weather Protection.

Outdoor enclosures such as an aviary should only be used if the animal is found within similar climatic areas that you intend to set up in (Weigel J 2004, p. 16).

Housing Diamond pythons outdoors is a lot more of a challenge than indoors enclosures as the heat and cool can vary dramatically and be uncontrollable. If intending to set up an out door enclosure an aviary works best. Aviaries should be positioned at north - east to catch first sun in the morning, have shade throughout the hot midday sun and receive shade again in the afternoon. Aviary furniture should include multiple branches for climbing basking and exercise, windbreaks, fresh water and multiple hide boxes made of timber with Styrofoam sheets to help with insulation (Watson N 2009, p.10, 11).

4.6 Heating Requirements.

A 60 Watt reflector lamp thermostatically controlled needs to be mounted down from the roof, located approximately 300mm away from basking site and at one end of the enclosure. The lamp should shine directly onto a large perch, rock or platform to create a basking site for the snake. The use of multiple bask sites should be considered in a very large enclosure which would allow the snake to stretch out while basking replicating natural behaviors (Grant R 2007, p.223).

4.7 Substrate.

The use of natural materials such as beach or river sand is an option however the course river sand is the greater option as the fine sand can be consumed with meals and lead to gut impaction (Swan M 2007, p 26). The use of newspaper or butchers paper is the simple more sterile option and is often opted as the greater option because of this (Weigel J 2004, p 23). The use of paper is a lot easier to clean however it is not aesthetically pleasing. Synthetic turf makes a good substrate but must be removed and cleaned on regular routine. Compacted paper pellets (Natures Choice cat litter), sphagnum moss, wood shavings, wood chips and leaf litter are also commonly used however regular changing should be practiced (Swan M 2007, p 26).

Swan (2007, p 26) mentions that the regular change of substrates and enclosure furnishings provides environmental enrichment for captive reptiles.

4.8 Nest Boxes or Bedding Material.

Most snakes will need a nest box or retreat area, the most commonly used hide box is a wooden structure with a hole big enough for the snake to enter, hide boxes should be built bottomless or with a removable lid for easy access to the snake and for cleaning. Bird nesting boxes make good hide spots (Swan M 2007. p 27).

4.9 Enclosure Furnishings.

Furniture should include branches, clean substrate, access to clean water and hide/ den boxes made from wood, plastic or cardboard placed under shelter (Weigel J 2004, p. 16).

Most snakes will need a nest box or retreat area, the most commonly used hide box is a wooden structure with a hole big enough for the snake to enter, hide boxes should be built bottomless or with a removable lid for easy access to the snake and for cleaning. Bird nesting boxes make good hide spots.

Hollow logs make aesthetically pleasing hide spots however they aren't as easy to clean nor is there easy access to the snake.

Branches should be firmly placed to provide naturalistic climbing points for this arboreal species (Swan M 2007. p 27).

5. General Husbandry.

5.1 Hygiene and Cleaning.

Spot cleaning and removal of fecal and uneaten food should be done when needed. By simply removing and discarding of wastes.

Substrate changes and cleaning should be done weekly if using newspaper, synthetic turf or cat litter. Remove newspaper and cat litter than dispose of. Synthetic turf should be removed and disinfected using F10.

Cleaning of nest boxes should be done weekly.

Chemical agents which can be used are F 10, Virkon S watered down bleach (dilute 1:30). The enclosure should be properly rinsed and adequate time should pass for aerating before animal is placed back (Vella D 2005. p 38, 39)

5.2 Record Keeping.

All of the following should be recorded as all data will be useful if needed.

- Health problems, such as ticks, mites, scale rot, etc.

- Veterinary examinations with treatments provided.

- Behavioral problems, such as over activity.

- Reproductive stage, condition or behavior.

- Changes in diet.

- Movements within and between institutions.

- Weights and measurements recorded monthly (Vella D 2005. p 59).

5.3 Methods of Identification.

Body markings and pattern differences such as colour, Spot shapes, head markings and size of the animal.

Microchiping is also possible in snakes.

5.4 Routine Data Collection.

Regular monthly fecal samples should be taken, with yearly bloods to be taken from the vain in the tail.

6. Feeding Requirements.

6.1 Captive Diet.

According to Grant (2007, p.226)

I feed my adults only laboratory rats and rabbits with twice yearly supplements of vitamins in capsules inserted inside the prey animal. The animals are fed heavily during the summer months and early autumn only.

Birds can also be offered as a dietary change and the most common species are pigeons, quails and chickens. Wild prey items should not be fed to captive snakes as the spread of disease and parasite is a higher risk than that of laboratory bred animals (Swan M 2007. p 29).

6.2 Supplements.

Snakes will not need a vitamin supplement if fed the correct prey item / items in captivity; however exposure to ultraviolet light can be beneficial from a nutritional point of view (Weigel J 2004, p 40).

6.3 Presentation of Food.

A thawed food item should be wriggled in front of the snake and moved backwards away from the snake using a long pair of forceps or tongs, doing this will evoke the hunting instinct of the snake. If the snake refuses to strike out at the food leave it in the cage for a few hours and in your absence the snake may eat the food (Weigel J 2004, p 42).

7. Handling and Transport.

7.1 Timing of Capture and Handling.

Try to avoid handling snakes when coming on to shed and just after feeding as regurgitation is a possibility (Vella D 2005, p 31, 32)

7.2 Catching Bags.

Cotton, calico or soft linen are recommended materials to be used Should be strong and tangle free. Avoid rough hessian and nylon that could lead to rubbing abrasions (Vella D 2005, p 34).

Figure D gives you an idea on dimensions of a catch bag and shows a snake hook

7.3 Capture and Restraint Techniques.

Simply pick up and support with open hands, try to avoid quick and sudden movements. If further restrain is needed grab firmly and gently behind the head while still supporting the rest of the body, doing this will cause the reptile to struggle more (Vella D 2005, p 32) 

7.4 Weighing and Examination.

Weigh in bag, than weigh free bag and deduct weights.

7.5 Release

As this snake is nocturnal late afternoon would be better suited to release, making sure the habitat is suitable for the animal to be released into.

7.6 Transport Requirements

- catch bag, Styrofoam box

7.6.1 Box Design

- Give dimensions and materials used for transport boxes.

- Include furnishings of transport box.

- Show a figure, if possible, of the transport box with dimensions.

7.6.2 Furnishings.

No furnishings are needed.

7.6.3 Water and Food.

No food should be offered 3 days prior to move however water should be left in the enclosure until time of transportation.

7.6.4 Animals per Box.

One animal per snake bag should be followed to reduce stress and also size differences may lead to injury or death in the smaller animal (Vella D 2005, p 33).

8. Health Requirements

8.1 Daily Health Checks

- Observations are generally undertaken during cleaning and feeding each morning and include limbs moving freely; feeding well, eyes clear and fully open, general appearance, discharges, behavior changes, consistency of faecal material.

8.2 Detailed Physical Examination

- Include general anesthetic procedures if possible.

- Details of key things that are looked for to gauge the health of this species.

8.3 Routine Treatments

- Worming

- Vaccinations

8.4 Known Health Problems.

Common reptile health problems include,

• Internal Parasites such as Round Worms.Cause: Round worms have an indirect cycle and acquired by eating the intermediate host such as frog, fish, lizard, rodent or marsupial. The most common effect is a secondary case of malnutrition. Diagnosis is usually based on finding eggs in fecal flotations however heavily infested animals will pass adult worms in feces or regurgitated contents. Treatment is Panacur orally at a dose rate of 25 - 50 mg/kg once a week for two to three treatments (Klingenberg R 1993 p 51, 52)
• Hook Worms. Cause: Access via the skin or by being passed on with contaminated foods. Diagnosis: Finding eggs on fecal flotation, blood in stools. Treatment: Panacur orally at a dose rate of 25 - 50 mg/kg once a week for two to three treatments. Strict cleanliness, removal of feces and frequent bedding changes (Klingenberg R 1993 p 53, 54).
• Lungworms (Rhabdias). Cause: Similar to Hook Worms. Diagnosis: Gaping mouth, wheezing and exudate from the trachea can be seen. Treatment: is Panacur orally at a dose rate of 50 - 100 mg/kg weekly for two to three weeks. Ivermectin at 0.2 mg/kg orally every two weeks (Klingenberg R 1993 p 56)
• Tapeworm. Cause: Ingestation of host. Diagnosis: Fecal flotation or by noticing the direct passing of tapeworm. Treatment: Droncit at 5 mg/kg orally or injection with a follow up dose in two weeks (Klingenberg R 1993 p 67, 68).
• Ticks. Cause:
• Mites.
• Diamond Python Syndrome (DPS)
• Inclusion Body Disease (IBD) Cause: Transmission by close contact with animals that have the disease. Diagnosis: It is very difficult as there are no known tests available. The only reliable identification method is by electron microscopy and viral isolation from tissue obtained at post mortem. Symptoms are wide ranged but can include an acute onset of neurological signs such as in coordination, loss of righting reflex (see figure F), disorientation, head tilting, star gazing and loss of motor functions. Treatment: Unrewarding and not recommended, all animals will eventually die from the disease.

· Ophidian Paramyxovirus (OPMV) Cause: No known Cause. Diagnosis: Anorexia, regurgitation, respiratory distress, weight loss, lethargy, secondary pneumonia, sudden death (Swan M 2007. p50). Treatment: No treatment at present.

· Necrotic Stomatits (Mouth Rot, Canker) Cause: Stress, Malnutrition and mouth injuries .Diagnosis: Anorexia, excessive salivation, open mouth gaping, loss of teeth and a thick discharge from the mouth. Treatment: Mild infestation will result in daily washes of the mouth with chlorhexidine or iodine. In severe cases the snake should be anaesthetized and the necrotic plaques should be removed with a cause of antibiotics and anti inflammatory medications for post operation health care (Swan M 2007. p 47)

9. Behaviour.

9.1 Activity.

The most common pattern of activity seen in wild Diamond pythons seems to be a couple of weeks without moving waiting for a prey item to come within striking distance. Than a shift of around 100 meters if unsuccessful in the present position. This happens in the warmer months of the year and is rarely seen in the mating season where a male may travel up to 500 meters a day. Males will travel around an area of around 45 hectares in a year while females will travel around half that. (Shine R 2009, p 95).

The diamond python will begin hibernation around late April (Grant R 2007, p 234).

10. Breeding.

10.1 Mating System.

According to Grant (2007, p 229)

Firstly I introduce a male to a female for 4 - 7 days and then add the other male for 2 - 3, leaving them together as a breeding group.

10.2 Ease of Breeding.

The Diamond python is a very popular snake among hobbyists and because of this there has been many accounts of breeding animals and breeding success (Watson N 2009, p.7).

Diamond pythons are a seasonal animal and require annual cyclic procedures to create sexual activity (Grant R 2007, p.227).

10.5 Occurrence of Hybrids.

As the Diamond python is a member of the Morelia spilota family it can reproduce and hybridize with any other member of the Morelia spilota family. A common example of this is Morelia spilota spilota cross Morelia spilota mcdowelli.

10.6 Timing of Breeding.

Diamond pythons are a seasonal animal and require annual cyclic procedures to create sexual activity (Grant R 2007, p.227).

10.7 Age at First Breeding and Last Breeding.

Males should be at least 4 years of age while females should be 6 (Watson N 2009, p.37).

10.8 Ability to Breed Every Year.

It is possible to breed annually however the stress on the female needs to be considered and the general health and wellbeing needs to be the priority. Wild Diamond pythons breed every two or three years (Watson N 2009, p.38).

10.9 Ability to Breed More Than Once Per Year.

Breeding is not possible more than once a year because of the seasonal cycle of this animal, also the stress on the female needs to be considered. The general health and wellbeing needs to be the priority. Wild Diamond pythons breed every two or three years (Watson N 2009, p.38).

10.10 Nesting / Hollow or other Requirements.

Two medium plastic tubs joined together to create the measurements of -260mm long x 160mm wide x 100mm high (Walker B 2007, p 282).

10.11 Breeding Diet.

Feeding heavily in the warmer months increases bulk and body condition on the animals prior to hibernation and the start of the new breeding season.

Prior to breeding all offers of food should be stopped and all food passed, as an inactive animal with a slow metabolism will end up with constipation (Grant R 2007, p.226, 227)

10.12 Oestrus Cycle and Gestation Period (or Incubation Period.)

Introductions of males to females should start around early September while ovulation should occur during November or early December at this time all males should be removed. Egg laying should take place after a further 6 - 8 weeks (Grant R 2007, p.229). {PAGE 37, 41, 43}

10.13 Litter Size or Clutch Size.

The average clutch size of a Coastal Carpet Python (Morelia spilota mcdowelli) is 25 eggs, however clutches of 50 eggs have been documented in the past (Walker B 2007, p 282).

Egg weights on average 40 gms (Grant R 2007, p. 230).

10.14 Age at Weaning / Fledging.

If using artificial incubation a 91% success rate is the average success rate for the Coastal Carpet python species (Walker B 2007, p 283).

Young are depended from birth

11. Artificial Incubation and Rearing of Reptiles.

11.1 Incubator type.

Suggested incubators include, Multiquip reptile incubator 460mm long x 1120mm high x 660mm deep.

The incubator will be a still air automatic temperature controlled unit and should be monitored closely by thermometer and visual cues such as infertile eggs growing mould, eggs concaving, and water forming on top of lid creating drips (Walker B 2007 p. 282, 283).

Incubation time is usually around 54 to 56 days. If eggs haven't started to hatch by day 55 a small slit in the top of the egg can be made (Watson N 2009, p 41).

11.2 Incubation Temperatures and Humidity.

A microclimate thermostat should be set to 29.5ºC. Diamond python eggs do best around 28ºC and 31ºC with 29ºC being the target temperature. Humidity should be 100% (Watson N 2009, p. 40, 41)

11.4 Hatching Temperature and Humidity.

The hatching temperature and humidity should remain the same as incubation temperature as all hatchlings will not emerge at the same time.

11.5 Normal Pip to Hatch Interval.

Neonates will emerge from the shell after pipping usually around 1 - 3 days later, once the neonate is completely out of the egg they should be removed and placed into a small heated enclosure. The egg should be removed and thrown out while removing hatched neonates as decay will occur quickly (Grant, R 2007 p. 231).

11.6 Diet and Feeding Routine.

You should start offering food a day or two after the first shed, which is usually 12 - 14 days after hatching. Later at night is a better time to feed the hatchlings as they will be more active at this time and will more than likely be investigating the tub. Pinky mice should be offered at body temperature, slowly move the pinky in front of the snakes snout, if it follows the scent then there is a good chance of feeding upon the first trial however if it moves away remove the pinky mice and wait for 5 minutes before returning and trying the same methods again while also nudging the pinky along the side of the snakes body which will trigger the natural constriction action. Some hatchlings will take longer than others to start feeding and the use of garden skink scent on prey items should be considered as skinks are a natural prey item for hatchling diamond pythons in the wild. However the scent of a gold fish can be used if sourcing a skink is hard to come by. Force feeding should never be considered in hatchling pythons as it can cause a large amount of stress on the animal and also cause a long period before it feeds it self and even death (Watson N 2009, p. 41, 42).

11.7 Specific Requirements.

The hatchling enclosure should be fitted with a heat source, fresh water and many hide spots over newspaper (Grant, R 2007, p.231). Branches should also be included as it will give the hatchlings something to grasp and move trough (Watson N 2009, p 41).

11.9 Hygiene.

As with dealing with any animal you should wash your hands before and after handling, latex gloves should be worn when feeding animals and cleaning up body wastes.

Reference list

Cronin, L 2001, Australian reptiles and amphibians, Envirobook, 38 Rose street Annandale, NSW 2038.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morelia_spilota

This page was last modified on 12 February 2011 at 23:10

Wikipedia

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Cook, T, n.d., Snakes, another lesson, In Timothee Cook's work page, Retrieved from https://sites.google.com/site/timotheecook/snakes-another-lesson

Swan, G 2004, A photographic guide to snakes and other reptiles of Australia, New Holland Publishers Pty Ltd, 1/66 Gibbes Street Chatswood, NSW 2067.

Swan, M 2007, Keeping and Breeding Australian Pythons, Mike Swan Herp. Books Lilydale, Victoria, Australia.

Grant, R 2007, Keeping and Breeding Australian Pythons, Mike Swan Herp. Books Lilydale, Victoria, Australia.

Shine, R 2009, Australian Snakes A Natural History, Reed New Holland Publishers Pty Ltd. 1/66 Gibbes Street Chatswood, NSW 2067.

Walker, B 2007, Keeping and Breeding Australian Pythons, Mike Swan Herp. Books Lilydale, Victoria, Australia.

Weigel, J 2004, Care of Australian reptiles in captivity, Reptile keepers association, Box 227 Gosford, NSW 2250.

Watson, N 2009, Reptiles Australia Magazine Volume 5 Issue 5, Alex Lannon, PO Box 4499, Knox City Victoria 3152.

Watson, N 2009, Reptiles Australia Magazine Volume 5 Issue 6, Alex Lannon, PO Box 4499, Knox City Victoria 3152.

Vella, D 2005, Reptile and Amphibian Rescue, Rehabilitation and Release, WIRES inc

Klingenberg, R 1993, Understanding Reptile Parasites, Advanced Vivarium Systems, P.O. Box 6050 Mission Viejo, CA 92690 USA

https://www.burkesbackyard.com.au/factsheets/Others/Snakes-as-Pets/2693

https://www.coolcompanions.com.au/australian-reptiles/australian-snakes-australian-reptiles/diamond-python/